Visible, accessible defects that matter to safety or cost: the roof and its remaining life, the foundation and drainage, the electrical panel and wiring, plumbing and the water heater, heating and cooling and their age, windows and doors, attic insulation and ventilation, and any sign of water intrusion, each graded by how much it matters.
A home inspector is a generalist working to a published standard of practice: they examine what can be seen and reached without moving furniture or opening walls, they operate what can be operated, and they write down what is wrong and why it matters. They do not grade the home or tell you whether to buy it. The report is long because everything gets noted; the buyer's job is to find the six lines that cost money.
The systems, and what each finding costs
- Roof: covering condition, flashing, penetrations, remaining life. A tile roof in the Las Vegas valley lasts decades but the underlayment beneath it does not; replacement runs $10,000 to $30,000.
- Structure and foundation: cracks and their pattern, sloping floors, moisture at the base of walls, grading that drains toward the house.
- Electrical: panel brand and condition (certain older panels are flagged on sight), grounding, GFCI protection, double-tapped breakers, aluminium wiring in 1960s and 70s homes.
- Plumbing: supply pipe material (polybutylene is a flag), water heater age and strapping, water pressure, visible leaks, drainage. The sewer line is not included; that is the separate scope.
- Heating and cooling: age, operation, condition of the condenser and the air handler, ductwork. A Las Vegas air conditioner works harder than most and 12 to 15 years is old; replacement is $6,000 to $12,000.
- Exterior and interior: stucco cracks, window seals, door operation, stairs and railings, garage door safety reverse, signs of pests.
- Attic and insulation: ventilation, insulation depth, evidence of leaks or rodents.
- Water: staining on ceilings, under sinks, around windows. Water is the finding behind most of the expensive ones.
What they do not look for
Anything behind walls or under slabs, the inside of the sewer line, the condition of a pool's underground plumbing, mould unless it is visible, asbestos and lead (a lab test), the quality of well water, whether appliances will last, code compliance of past work, and anything the seller's furniture or storage covered. Each of those has its own specialist and its own fee, and the general report will say where one is recommended.
How to read the report
Sort by category and read the safety and major-defect items first. Ask the inspector, who is usually happy to talk, what they would fix first and what they would not worry about. Get contractor quotes for anything over a few thousand dollars before the contingency deadline, because the repair request or credit you negotiate has to be grounded in a number. Cosmetic items and routine maintenance are yours; sellers do not credit for them and asking damages the negotiation on the items that matter.
Questions people ask
What are red flags in a home inspection?
Active water intrusion, foundation movement, an electrical panel flagged as a fire risk, a roof at the end of its life, a failed sewer scope, and evidence of unpermitted structural work. Each is either expensive or a safety matter, and each is a reason to renegotiate or walk.
Can a house fail a home inspection?
No. An inspection is not a pass or fail; it is a report. The buyer decides whether the findings are acceptable at the price. Lender-required inspections (FHA and VA appraisals, termite reports) can require repairs before the loan funds.
Should the buyer be present at the inspection?
For the last half hour, yes. The inspector will walk you through the significant findings in the house, which teaches more than the report does. Being present for all three hours is not necessary and slows the inspector down.